Words Huw Bennett, Founder & Creative Director, Work Tones

It’s my belief that before you sell someone or something’s merits it’s best to get the faults or disadvantages out of the way. Honesty is the best policy right? The hard line, these brands come with few drawbacks – they are at times hard to track down (we’ll try to help), sure the sizing runs a little small but for the majority this isn’t a problem, and sure they command a high price but this could also be argued as one of their numerous merits.

Well onto the merits then… and by the way these are just a few. Combined craftsmanship and genuine appreciation for a product tend to have good outcomes, the attention to detail, styling notes (more about this later) design innovations and odes to times when clothes serviced more of commanding purpose are some of the major wins. Japanese fabric mills and manufacturers are considered some of the best in the world. Their use of traditional techniques for garment construction and dying still hold strong today, and in a market that values local made above all elsewhere the product stands up as (in my opinion) the best menswear offering in the world (wow). Other than saying ‘Japanese brands’ there is no other way to categorize or group together what comes out of this wonderful country. The ability to be totally uncompromising creates the truly weird and wonderful.

What we’ve tried to piece together here are brands styled along the lines of classically true menswear, utilitarian ideas and collections that reference trends long gone and pride themselves on being unique in both design and marketing.

BEAMS PLUS
“Ouch” says the purest but it goes without saying that any visit to Japan isn’t complete without a visit to a Beams store. With their flag-bearing label ‘Beams Plus’ they have managed to capture that true sense of Japanese clothing that continually redefines classically made menswear that borrows cues from Workwear, Americana sportswear and military styling and sensibility.

Shop at Mr Porter

NANAMICA
Technical meets practical, shaped by designs based around utility sportswear – Nanamica is the complete modern brand. Classic clean shapes mixed with advanced fabrics equal form and function. Get across the outerwear for winter mixed with their seasonal accessories, which are always a true delight.

Shop at End Clothing

TS(S)
Hot tip, Ts(s) is something special. Designer Takuji Suzuki (notable family members include his brother Daiki, founder and designer of American based Engineered Garments) combines intricate detail and unusual textiles with unique and seasonal fabrics to create subtle but effective real menswear. It’s hard to pick a category that stands out. For the bold look at the relaxed suiting or the paired back light-weight over shirts.

Shop at Union Made

ANONYMOUS ISM
If the name fits. Famous for shying away from press, marketing and almost anything that makes sense in promoting a brand, Anonymous Ism is the complete socks brand (now that’s a statement). Kitsch styles sit effortlessly next to patch work, tie dye, and jacquard to name a few. Each season offers new treats, mostly high but sometimes low. You’re sure to find a new ‘old’ favorite.

Shop at Bureau Belfast

ORSLOW
Orslow is the kind of brand I could ramble on about all day, the only problem is there isn’t much to ramble on about. Classically styled menswear made well with fine fabrics to produce simple, subtle yet refined pieces with a focus on denim, chambray and custom fabrics that are crafted for everyday wear. We recommend you check out Orslow for your next chambray shirt or Sunday best shirt.

Shop at Need Supply

By Oliver Grand